From a top board-certified dermatologist
With four kids and a thriving dermatology practice at Vista, Dr. Bowers knows that life gets busy. Like many of us, she uses a blend of name-brand, prescription, and drugstore products to achieve the flawless skin that we get to see in clinic!
Morning skincare routine
1. Gentle Cleanser
Not everyone needs a harsh wash first thing in the morning. A gentle cleanser removes oil buildup while keeping your skin barrier intact.
2. Vitamin C Serum
Applying a vitamin C serum (like L-ascorbic acid) before sun protection neutralizes free radicals caused by pollution and UV light. It also acts as an essential cofactor for building new collagen.
- Derm tip: Vitamin C is unstable. If your serum turns dark brown, it has oxidized, lost its biological activity, and should be replaced. If you have sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, look for lower concentrations or gentler Vitamin C derivatives like THD.
3. Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen (+/- Moisturizer)
Sunscreen is non-negotiable. The difference between “moisturizer with SPF” and “sunscreen” really comes down to branding. Most sunscreens have moisturizer in them, and many times contain other active ingredients like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide that can help address some skin concerns. What matters is the SPF, and whether your sun protection includes broad spectrum protection.
SPF (sun protective factor) measures our protection against UVB and therefore measures how long it takes to Burn. SPF 30 means it would take you 30 times longer to burn compared to no sunscreen. SPF 30 blocks ~97% of UVB rays. SPF 50 blocks ~98%. I recommend SPF 50+ for most of my patients, largely because most people do not apply enough sunscreen (or reapply their sunscreen) and end up getting less protection than expected.
If you want both UVB and UVA protection, you need broad spectrum sunscreen.
- UVB Rays: Responsible for sunburns (Burn). An SPF 30 filters roughly 97% of UVB rays, while SPF 50 filters about 98%.
- UVA Rays: Responsible for premature aging, tanning, and long-term skin cancer risk (Aging). UVA rays penetrate window glass and accumulate daily.
Evening skincare routine
1. Gentle Wash
Unless you wear heavy, waterproof makeup or full-coverage foundation, you generally do not need to double cleanse with an oil wash.
2. Topical Retinoid
Retinoids are my dermatology workhorse. They boost skin cell turnover, smooth texture, unclog pores, fade hyperpigmentation, and stimulate new collagen production to soften fine lines.
- Retinoid Options: Over-the-counter retinols are the gentlest starting point. Prescription-strength retinoic acids (like tretinoin or tazarotene) are 10-20x more potent but are more irritating on the skin.
- Application: Apply a single pea-sized amount to your entire face. Always build up tolerance gradually over several weeks to avoid irritation. I like the sandwich method: moisturizer, then retinoid, then moisturizer again to start. Over time you can remove the moisturizer steps.
3. Nighttime Moisturizer
Lock in hydration and support your skin barrier overnight with a rich moisturizing cream containing ceramides or hyaluronic acid.
Skincare cheat sheet
Morning:
- Cleanse with Cetaphil gentle cleanser
- Apply SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic antioxidant serum
- Apply EltaMD UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF 46
Evening
- Cleanse with Cetaphil gentle cleanser
- Apply pea-sized amount of retinoid (I use tazarotene 0.045%) to entire face
- Apply Cerave renewing night cream
FAQ
Do I need to cleanse in the morning?
Generally, no. Patients with acne-prone skin should cleanse in the morning and at night, but in general not everyone needs to cleanse in the morning (or can cleanse with water only). Wash your face gently with your fingers – you do not need washcloths and definitely do not need any scrubbing products!
Do I need to double cleanse at night?
Only if you wear heavy, long-wear makeup or water-resistant sunscreen. For standard daily wear, a single thorough wash with a gentle cleanser is completely sufficient.
What is the most important anti-aging product?
Aside from daily sunscreen, retinoids offer the most proven dermatological benefits. Retinoids include retinols, retinals, and retinoic acids (including tretinoin and tazarotene), which differ in their strength and how many steps are required for them to be activated on the skin. Retinols are gentlest and retinoic acids are more potent (5-20x stronger than over the counter retinols in general).
Beyond aesthetic benefits like smoothing texture and clearing acne, I also use topical and systemic retinoids to manage medical conditions such as rosacea, psoriasis, folliculitis, and even precancerous skin lesions.
What’s the Vista View?
Skincare routines do not have to be complicated to be effective!
Talk to your dermatologist if you have specific skincare concerns. Prescription ingredients can be additive to a simple and easy skincare routine.
about the author
Dr. Gina Bowers
Dr. Gina Bowers, MD is a board-certified dermatologist providing expert medical and cosmetic dermatology services in St. Louis, MO.
She is a Castle Connolly Top Doctor.
